New Shafts for Sale
We have new hickory shafts for sale and they are something to behold. Having tried making new shafts by hand on a special lathe put together by my mentor, Patrick Kennedy, I can tell you new shafts are not easy to make. Besides requiring about 2 hours standing at a lathe and trying to get the diameters to be precise, it is not an easy or fun project. Also it requires starting with a straight one inch diameter dowel. Having looked out there for "straight" one inch dowels of hickory, they are not easy or cheap to find. Starting with one inch square dowels is no easy matter either. Figuring out how to saw a hickory log in a way that does not waste lumber and does not result in a grain in the wood that comes at an angle is also a great challenge. And finding hickory dowels that have a straight grain is also next to impossible. The prospect of having a hickory shaft wood grain that is straight to start with or that will stay straight is another challenge. Finally a hickory grain that is not straight and parallel with the sides of the shaft often becomes a curved or bowed shaft that is unusable. Finally, hickory shafts that have a twisted or cross grain are not as strong and are given to breaking when they are stressed when hitting the ground more than you planned.
The answer to this problem is finding hickory wood that is split with a hydraulic wood splitter so that the grain stays straight for a full 40 to 44 inches. With a straight grain you then can use a CNC router and computer to cut the perfect hickory shaft to precise diameters exactly the way you want them. We have come across just such a manufacturer and skilled craftsman to make the straightest and strongest shafts we have ever come across. A straight grain leads to a strong shaft and a straight shaft that will stay that way permanently. As a result we can offer shafts that are graded after production to be: Extra Stiff, Stiff, Regular or Senior/Ladies in their flex.
When something is done right and successfully, it is unusual and it often costs a little bit more. We are offering our New Hickory Shafts for Irons at $34.95 and for Woods at $39.95. It costs a little more than shafts you might buy elsewhere but they are superior because the grain is straight and the shafts are thus more uniform and stronger. New Iron Shafts come in a full 40 inches in length. The Wood Shafts come in 44 inch length. Also, using a CNC machine to cut these shafts results in a very smooth surface that does not need sanding before adding stain and Tru-Oil. Prep time on these shafts is vastly shortened. We are excited by these new shafts and we hope you will like them as much as we do. We are still waiting to receive our first "wood" shafts and expect them to be available any day now. All flexes of "iron" shafts are available now! Be sure to choose the flex you want in the buttons below:
The answer to this problem is finding hickory wood that is split with a hydraulic wood splitter so that the grain stays straight for a full 40 to 44 inches. With a straight grain you then can use a CNC router and computer to cut the perfect hickory shaft to precise diameters exactly the way you want them. We have come across just such a manufacturer and skilled craftsman to make the straightest and strongest shafts we have ever come across. A straight grain leads to a strong shaft and a straight shaft that will stay that way permanently. As a result we can offer shafts that are graded after production to be: Extra Stiff, Stiff, Regular or Senior/Ladies in their flex.
When something is done right and successfully, it is unusual and it often costs a little bit more. We are offering our New Hickory Shafts for Irons at $34.95 and for Woods at $39.95. It costs a little more than shafts you might buy elsewhere but they are superior because the grain is straight and the shafts are thus more uniform and stronger. New Iron Shafts come in a full 40 inches in length. The Wood Shafts come in 44 inch length. Also, using a CNC machine to cut these shafts results in a very smooth surface that does not need sanding before adding stain and Tru-Oil. Prep time on these shafts is vastly shortened. We are excited by these new shafts and we hope you will like them as much as we do. We are still waiting to receive our first "wood" shafts and expect them to be available any day now. All flexes of "iron" shafts are available now! Be sure to choose the flex you want in the buttons below:
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Multi-Purpose High Impact Shafting Epoxy
This is our regular cure epoxy for securing your iron head or wood head to their shaft. The epoxy sets up in about 20 minutes which is plenty of time to get your head on to the hosel of the shaft. Clean up can be done with a paper towel and denatured alcohol. Be sure that the direction of your head is perpendicular to the grain of the wood in your shaft. Your hands and tools can also be cleaned with the alcohol in case you get some on your hands or on your work bench. Be sure to clean the shaft area above the hosel with the alcohol so that your asphaltum will stain all of the shaft close to the hosel. |
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Tru-Oil
Tru-Oil is a combination of Varnish and Linseed Oil for refinishing and sealing your hickory shafts. This product is so amazing and easy to apply. We simply rub it on with a small rag, a cotton ball or use our fingers. Then let the oil do its magic. Two or three coats with drying between coats will waterproof your shaft with a seal that cannot be chipped or rubbed off. Shellac can be hard to apply, but with Tru-Oil you can avoid these problems. Now you can have confidence that your clubs are protected from the elements. Tru-Oil has a beautiful semi-gloss finish that allows the true color of the stained shaft to shine through. Drying time is about 2 hours. We highly recommend using "Asphaltum" (see below) to stain your shaft, and then Tru-Oil to protect it from the rain and humidity. |
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Our Best Choice for Grip Tape
This is our favorite friction tape for re-gripping your clubs. One roll is ¾" wide and 60 ft. long. We also offer a 1 ½ wide tape as well. The 60 foot length is twice as long as most tape found in a hardware stores. One roll will last for 5 clubs if you put on three layers for a 13 inch grip. The 1 ½ inch tape will do 10 clubs if you put on 3 layers for a 13 inch grip. Depending on how thick you like your grips, you can add as many layers as you like. The Tape is approximately 10 thousands of an inch thick. One layer will increase the grip diameter by 20 thousands of an inch. Three or four wraps around a standard .740" shaft will bring your shaft close to .800 thick. Then a .050" thick cowhide grip will produce a .900" grip diameter 2" from the top of the shaft. That is the normal grip size for men. The roll is very sticky, but simple to apply. Should adjustments be necessary it can be easily unwrapped and reapplied. When it comes time to re-grip, simply remove your old grip and put the new grip right back on over the tape. Be sure to see our re-gripping video on our 'tools' page. |
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Tacky Grip Cream
This is a non-slip cream for your smooth gripped clubs. Old grips with the smooth side out can slip in your hands when making your shot. Put a little grip cream on your hands (not on your grip) before and during play for that 'vice' like grip. How can you hold the club lightly in your hand while taking a full swing? Tacky Grip Cream is the answer. This product is actually made for bowlers who hold the bowling ball with only their fingertips. We have found it's also perfect for holding the golf club grip without having it slip in your hand. Push your thumb down through through the surface to mix it up before rubbing it on your hands. You can be sure that your club will not slip during your back swing or when making that crucial contact with the ball. |
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Grip Tacks
These hard to find tacks are the original size used by club makers in the 1920's. They are 3/32 long and are the smallest tacks made. These are just what you need to tack down you grip at the top and bottom. We sell 100 tacks for $11.00. Sorry, Our manufacturer is unable to supply these
Also, We are now using the double sided shaft tape that is used on modern clubs, and I like it!!! With this tape you don't need a tack or glue so it makes putting on a grip easier.
These hard to find tacks are the original size used by club makers in the 1920's. They are 3/32 long and are the smallest tacks made. These are just what you need to tack down you grip at the top and bottom. We sell 100 tacks for $11.00. Sorry, Our manufacturer is unable to supply these
Also, We are now using the double sided shaft tape that is used on modern clubs, and I like it!!! With this tape you don't need a tack or glue so it makes putting on a grip easier.
Our Substitute for Grip Tacks is Here!!
Above you can see our new substitute for Grip Tacks:
On the left is a role of double sided Grip Tape that is 2 inches wide and 18 yards Long. In the Center is 10 pieces of the 2 inch by 10 inch section of double sided tape. On the Right is a 2 inch by 36 yard long roll of grip tape You can choose below the option that you prefer. We are recommending a 3 inch long section of tape at the top of the grip area and a similar section at the bottom of the grip area as shown in the picture below. 
Here are the instructions for using grip tape to replace the use of Tacks:
Step #1: Apply 2 to 3 layers of Black Friction tape to the area at the top of your shaft. This serves two purposes: a.Building up the diameter under the grip and b. Creating a sticky area to hold the final grip in place. This can be for 10 to 13 inches depending upon your preference. Remember, if you add too much weight to the gripping area, you will change the swing weight of your club to a lower number and you will decrease your sensation of the position of your club head during your swing. This is why people often prefer swing weights in the C to D range rather than to the A and B range. Step #2: Cut off about 2.5 to 3 inches of the grip tape provided and place this tape at the top of the shaft on top of the friction tape. Do the same at the bottom of the grip area. See the illustration above. Step #3: Trim your leather grip as you usually do and start wrapping the grip onto the double sided sticky grip tape at the top of the shaft and proceed down the shaft until you have achieved the desired length. In the last 2 inches you should come to your second area of double sided tape that will hold the bottom of your grip in place. Trim the leather grip off with a single edged razor blade at the bottom. Step #4: Shave the bottom of the grip at an angle to allow the whipping to make a gradual transition from the shaft to the grip area. Step #5: Do the whipping at the bottom and the top of the grip area as you normally do. |
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Three Types of Pins
Here are three types of Pins you can use when installing a head on your Hickory shaft with new Epoxy. The Aluminum pins are no longer available, our supplier can no longer obtain them, Sorry. The Brass pins are medium soft to file down. Brass pins make it easy to find and replace a pin in the future. The Steel pins are the strongest and look most like your hosel. They are the hardest and consequently the hardest to file down. Please specify which type you want. There are ten pins per type in a small plastic container. Please choose the type you want in the pull down menu to the right. |
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