This option is for the golf stand only; the golf bag in the picture shows the function of the stand. For those interested in purchasing a golf bag and stand, see the sale price in the Specials section.

Our Golf Bag Stand is made of oak. I have thickened the oak legs for more stability. The entire stand is stained in Miniwax Honey and coated with Trueoil for protection from water.

Using our "Patrick Kennedy" Club Straightening tool, we can substantially straighten a crooked shaft.  The tool, shown in our tools section makes it possible to bend your crooked shaft back to straight.  We put the shaft in the tool and run a heat gun over the shaft for about 5  to 8 minutes.  This process allows the fibers in the wood to realign and take on a new shape.  Once the shaft has cooled, after about 5 minutes, we can remove the now straightened shaft.  The heat process is done with constant movement so as not to harm the finish on your shaft.  We have been able to do this regardless of the finish on your shaft: shellac, polyurethane, or tru-oil.  We recommend tru-oil as our preferred finish since it seals the wood and prevents moisture from entering your shaft.  It is usually moisture that causes shafts to bend in the first place.  Any time you get caught in the rain it is very important to dry out your clubs immediately following play using absorbent towels and it does not hurt to apply another coat of tru-oil once they have dried.  It also helps to clean your clubs with Murphy's oil/soap since it will not harm wood shafts.  I also use Murphy's oil to clean my iron heads as well by using it with sponge sanding pads (use a fine grit sanding pad or plastic scrub sponge type pad.)  We will add a coat of Tru-Oil after we straighten your shaft to protect it from moisture.  You can add WD-40 to your club heads after cleaning the rust off of them.  This helps to keep rust from forming again.   

Some times we find a club we like only to find that the shaft is too short to use properly.  The reason for this is that many hickory shafted clubs were cut down to make them more playable for women and for children.  But as an adult, these clubs are hard to use due to the shaft being about three inches too short.  The solution is to have the shaft extended 3 inches by attaching a shaft extension.  These extensions can be made from parts of a broken shaft, or from a three quarter inch oak or maple dowel.  We use both for our extension work.  Just pack up your club and send it to us and we will drill out the end of your shaft and epoxy an extension on to the end and smooth down the shaft so you can add a grip over the extension.  If you want us to add a new grip, we can do that as well as reset your club head, and even refinish the shaft.  Look above,  we will do everything you need for a maximum of $39 per club.  (This does not include shaft replacement, but only shaft extension.)  We can also just add the extension and then you can do your own grip. 

This is a replacement of the hickory shaft in a Hickory wood that has a cracked or broken shaft.  Mounting of the wood head with epoxy with the new shaft is included.  

This is a replacement of the hickory shaft in a hickory iron that is broken or missing with a new shaft made by Louisville Golf. com. Mounting of the iron head with the new shaft with epoxy is included.  No refinishing is included or re-gripping at this price.  Please indicate desired length of club and shaft after the head is mounted.  

Replacement of a broken hickory shaft with a new hickory shaft: 
Finishing of the new shaft with asphaltum, sealing of the shaft with Tru-Oil.
Installing a new grip with friction tape under-listing and whipping at the top and bottom of the grip: 
Refinishing of the Wood head with sanding, staining and sealing with Tru-oil

Replacement of a broken hickory shaft with a new hickory shaft: 
Finishing of the new shaft with asphaltum (the original stain used in the 1920's), sealing of the shaft with Tru-Oil: 
Resetting of the pin in the iron head and using epoxy to set the head: 
 Re-gripping of the shaft with a new grip and whipping at the bottom and top of the grip. 

Cleaning and re-finishing the shaft with asphaltum (the original stain used in the 1920's), sealing of the shaft with Tru-Oil: 
Resetting of the pin in the iron head and using epoxy to set the head: 

Refinishing of the Wood head with sanding, staining and sealing with Tru-Oil, including whipping of the Wood head hosel: 
Re-finishing of the shaft by cleaning and sanding the shaft; refinishing with asphaltum, and sealing of the shaft with Tru-Oil: 
Installing a new grip with friction tape under-listing and whipping at the top and bottom of the grip: 

Careful removal of the old grip, cleaning of the grip shaft with Murphy's Oil, re-sealing of the grip section with Tru-Oil, under-wrapping of the grip with black friction tape to required thickness (one to three wrappings depending upon shaft thickness), application of a new cowhide or buffalo hide grip, and re-whipping of the top and the bottom of the grip.  Price includes grip and thread used.      

Removal of old finish, fine sanding, re-staining of shaft in a desired color, application of desired finish: Polyurethane, Shellac, or Tru-Oil finish. Sealing of Whipping with any of the above finishes.  Tru-Oil is a finish that is used on gun stocks and is very effective in preventing moisture getting to your shaft.  Moisture is very harmful to hickory shafts and is often responsible for warping and rotting of shafts. The first coat of Tru-Oil saturates the wood and subsequent coats provide a surface that is impervious to water.  The finish enhances the lustrous sheen of the wood and will continue to improve each time you buff the shaft  

  Removal of old Finish, sanding or steel wool cleaning where necessary, re-application of stain, sealing of the head, spray painting of a new finish with Polyurethane, Shellac, or Tru-Oil finish.  Rewhipping of the head hosel area onto the shaft.   

Removal of rust and polishing of the iron head 

  Removal of hosel pin and replacement of a new pin and epoxy of shaft in the hosel.   Call for price.

Removal of rust and polishing of the iron head       

Resetting of Iron Head with a new pin    Removal of hosel pin and replacement of a new pin and epoxy of shaft in the hosel.  

We offer the wooden shaft extensions separately from the extension tool if you need extra. These extensions are 3 inches in length.

The Hickory Shaft Extension Tool has a Steel Collar that fits over the end of a Hickory shaft and allows you to drill a 3/8-inch hole in the center of your existing shaft.  The 3/8 inch drill is included with the Tool as well as two shaft extensions. Use epoxy to set your inset into the club shaft, add a few layers of masking tape in order to assure a tight fit into the extension tool.   Full instructions written by Patrick are included for the step-by-step process of extending your shaft.  

If you are wondering why anyone would do this, it is not uncommon to find hickory shafts that were cut down for children or women to be able to play with them.  But if you have found a club you really like and want to put into play, the extension tool is the best way to get the club to the length you require for your height.  Full instructions are included with the kit.

In the old days, people used a short piece of waxed linen thread to loop and place under the last 5 rows of whipping to pull out the end of the thread under those rows.  But this thread pulling tool is easier and faster than using the thread for this purpose.  The 40 pound test line in this pulling tool is more slippery than linen thread so it pulls out easier and will work with more wraps of thread if you like to use more than five rows to complete your whipping.  I always love tools that make life easier and more effective.  

Patrick Kennedy Shaft Sanding Tool - This is a solid oak or maple shaft sanding tool that holds your hickory shaft while you are sanding it.  This tool fits into a bench top vice to be held steady while you sand your shaft.  The tool is very handy and allows you to twist your shaft as you sand.

This stand can be mounted on any table by attaching hand clamps on the bottom of the stand.  Clubs can be placed on top for sanding or setting pins in heads or can be inserted in the round holes for whipping of grips or heads and shafts.  Top and holes are lined with Buffalo leather to protect your shaft finish.

This stand can be mounted in any vise by attaching the vise to the sides on the bottom of the stand.  Clubs can be placed on top for sanding or setting pins in heads or can be inserted in the round holes for whipping of grips or heads and shafts.  Top and holes are lined with black leather to protect your shaft finish.

This is a unique tool for straightening those pesky shafts that don't seem to want to be straight.  Place the shaft of your club in the series of movable cams and apply pressure to straighten out the shaft. Then apply heat from a heat gun.  Once the shaft has cooled down and settled for about 5 minutes you can remove it and your old crooked shaft has a new life.  

 The Straightener comes fully assembled.  You will need to supply your own heat gun (1500 watt). Use of an infrared reader is also recommended to make sure you are getting the shaft hot enough to make the change permanent.  Full instructions are included.   Price: $139

DESCRIPTION

This is our 5-inch Pencil Golf Bag designed in a Traditional Hickory Style, available in five different colors.

DETAILS

• The bag is 34 inches tall and has a 5-inch opening at the top. Made out of heavy-duty canvas and reinforced with leather, weighing just 2 pounds it is easy and comfortable to carry.  The bag will carry up to 7 to 9 clubs;

• Fiberglass stays are installed to keep the bag upright at all times;

• Balls, gloves, and tees can be carried in the two pockets, one is zippered, and the other has a buckle closure;

• There is an umbrella holder and a strap to hold a sweater or jacket when not being worn;

• Our 5-inch bag can be used with our bag stand to make removal of clubs much easier and keep the bag up off the ground, see our special if you are buy both these items. The stand is availably separately, as you will see below.

These are our leather (cow or bison) for your wood =drivers, Spoons and Brassies. We off all three in a relaxed fit, The Spoon and Brassie club covers are slightly smaller than the full driver head covers. The Brassie is traditionally only slightly smaller than the Spoon driver, so we cut from the same pattern for both clubs. Order your genuine leather club cover here Spoon and Brassie head covers here.

This is the thread used for pre-1900 clubs.  It is 7-ply, almost twice as thick as the normal 4-ply. The larger spool - 140 to 150 yards long - means more thread and more coverage in your whipping; you can expect to whip about 70 clubs if you whip at the bottom and top of your grips. Given this, you may want to go in with two or three friends for this spool!

Available in Black only.

Traditionally, hickory club covers were sewn from the finely patterned wool known as Scottish Tartans. These club covers were very popular in the 1920s. We offer 6 variations of this fine wool cloth, each pattern represents a different family or clans. We have size to fit Drivers as well as Spoons and Brassies. (These covers will not fit modern 460 cc Drivers).

We are working to improve the images of the tartans, but you can look them up on the internet for clarity and history.

Here are six Cool Tone 4-ply waxed linen threads by Crawford for your whipping projects. Each spool includes at least 90 yards of thread. The colors in the Cool category include:

Here are six Warm Tone 4-ply waxed linen threads by Crawford for your whipping projects. Each spool includes at least 90 yards of thread. The colors in the Warm category include:

Here are six Dark Tone 4-ply waxed linen threads by Crawford for your whipping projects. Each spool includes at least 90 yards of thread. The colors in the Dark category are shown in the color choices below.

Our favorite way to mount grips is with the suede or rough side out. Traditional grips had the smooth side out.  It may be that back in the 1920s, the suede side was not as soft and easy to grip as it is today.  

Our grips are available in Cowhide or Buffalo in a variety of colors. The Cowhide grips have a slightly stronger backing than the Buffalo Grips; both are soft to the touch.

Grips are cut to a taper of 1 1/4 inch down to 1 inch.  The wider part of the grip should be installed at the top of the grip. They are approximately 34–36 inches long. This will give you a grip of up to 12 inches long, with a little left over.  

We strive to maintain color consistency in the hides we purchase. However, hides can vary subtly in color, and every hide accepts tanning a little differently. It is always our goal to send you the best, most consistent quality grips we can find.

Our favorite way to mount grips is with the suede or rough side out.  Traditional grips had the smooth side out.  It may be that back in the 1920s, the suede side was not as soft and as easy to grip as it is today.  

Today's grips are usually made out of Cowhide and Buffalo. The Buffalo grips are a little more supple than the Cowhide grips; both are soft to the touch.

Colors vary over time, as well as their availability. In some cases the difference between colors is so slight that on the course it would be difficult to tell, as is the case with Merlot and Burgundy. I am batching these colors into a single option, labeled with both color names.

Grips are cut to a taper of 1 1/4 inch down to 1 inch.  The wider part of the grip should be installed at the top of the grip. They are approximately 34-36 inches long. This will give you a grip of up to 12 inches long, with a little left over.  

We offer two types of pins you can use, with epoxy glue, when installing a head on your Hickory shaft.

The Brass pins are medium soft to file down. Brass pins make it easy to find and replace a pin in the future. The Steel pins are the strongest and look most like your hosel. They are the hardest and therefore more difficult to file down. 

Please specify which type you want. There are ten pins per type in a small plastic container.

Our options for Double Sided grip tape vary in size and quantity, as shown in the picture. On the left of the picture is a role of double-sided Grip Tape that is 2 inches wide and 18 yards Long. In the center is 10 pieces of the 2-inch by 10 inch sections of double-sided tape.  On the right is a 2-inch by 36 yard long roll of grip tape
     

You can choose below the option that you prefer.  We are recommending a 3-inch-long section of tape at the top of the grip area and a similar section at the bottom of the grip area as shown in the picture below.

This link provides instructions for using grip tape.

This is a non-slip cream for your smooth gripped clubs. Grips with the smooth side out can slip in your hands when making your shot.  You can be sure that your club will not slip during your back swing or when making that crucial contact with the ball when you use Tacky Grip Cream.

Push your thumb down through the surface to mix it up before rubbing it on your hands. Put a little grip cream on your hands (not on your grip) before and during play for that 'vice' like grip.

This is our favorite friction tape for re-gripping your clubs. One roll is ¾" wide and 60 feet long.  We also offer a 1½” wide tape as well. The 60-ft length is twice as long as most tape found in hardware stores. One roll of ¾” inch tape will last for 5 clubs if you put on three layers for a 13 inch grip. The 1½” inch tape will do 10 clubs if you put on 3 layers for a 13 inch grip.

Depending on how thick you like your grips, you can add as many layers as you like. The tape is approximately 10 thousands of an inch thick. One layer will increase the grip diameter by 20 thousands of an inch. Three or four wraps around a standard .740" shaft will bring your shaft close to .800” thick. Then a .050" thick cowhide grip will produce a .900" grip diameter 2" from the top of the shaft.  That is the normal grip size for men.

Miniwax “Honey” is the wood stain we recommend for finishing new or refurbished Hickory Shafts. Honey colored Asphaltum was the oil based stain used in the 1920’s Hickory era, the Miniwax stain looks like the traditional stain.

"Honey" stain by Minwax does not need to be thinned.  You can apply it straight from the can with a small sponge brush and then wipe off the stain with a paper towel. After a few hours of drying, Tru-Oil can be applied by hand to preserve the stain and keep the shaft waterproof.

     We are pleased to offer this new "Honey" stain by Minwax in two sizes, the ½ pint (8 oz.) size for $13 and the quart (32 oz.) size for $19 . This 1/2 pint container will be enough for a dozen or so clubs and the quart size would be ideal if you have several sets to complete. Both can be cleaned up with mineral spirits.

DESCRIPTION

Tru-Oil is a combination of Varnish and Linseed Oil for refinishing and sealing your hickory shafts. This product is so amazing and easy to apply. We simply rub it on with a small rag, a cotton ball or use our fingers. Then let the oil do its magic. Two or three coats with drying between coats will waterproof your shaft with a seal that cannot be chipped or rubbed off. ​Tru-Oil has a beautiful semi-gloss finish that allows the true color of the stained shaft to shine through. Drying time is about 2 hours.

DESCRIPTION

This is our recommended epoxy for securing your iron or wood heads to their shafts.  The epoxy sets up in about 20 minutes, which is plenty of time to get your head on to the hosel of the shaft.   Be sure that the direction of your head is perpendicular to the grain of the wood in your shaft. Cleanup (hands, tools, workbench) can be done with a paper towel and denatured alcohol. Be sure to clean the shaft area above the hosel with the alcohol, so that your stain will cover the shaft close to the hosel.

We are offering our Hickory Shafts for Irons at $34.95 and for Woods at $39.95; length 40 and 44 inches respectively.  The shafts come in 4 degrees of stiffness: 1) Very Stiff, 2) Stiff, 3) Regular, and 4) Less Robust Stiffness.

These hickory shafts cost a little more than you might pay elsewhere; they are superior because the grain is straight, which allows the CNC route/lath to shape them just right. The result is stronger more robust shaft for your drivers and clubs. Also, the finished surface is very smooth, which does not need sanding before adding stain and Tru-Oil.  We are excited by the quality of these shafts, and hope you will like them as much as we do. 

DESCRIPTION

This is our 7-inch Pencil Golf Bag designed in a Traditional Hickory Style, available in five different colors.

DETAILS

• The bag is 34 inches tall and has a 7-inch opening. Made of heavy-duty canvas and reinforced with leather, his bag is light—it weighs over 3 pounds. The bag will carry up to 12 to 14 clubs.

• Fiberglass stays are installed to keep the bag upright at all times;

• Two larger pockets: one 16 inches and the other10 inches long, for stowing rain suit as well as balls, gloves, bug spray and sunscreen.  The bag’s top cover also protects your clubs when it rains;

• Our 7-inch bag can be used with our bag stand to make removal of clubs much easier and keep the bag up off the ground, see our special if you are buy both these items. The stand is availably separately, as you will see below.